Restaurant review: Krishna’s Inn

Krishna's Inn

A heaving table of no-fills, tasty South Indian food.

I might as well admit my bias now: I absolutely love Indian food. I was brought up on curry and am an avid devotee of Atul Kochhar (to the extent of drunkenly ranting about him to strangers).

So I was pretty excited when I saw a South Indian restaurant in the Guardian’s guide to low-budget eating in Bristol. There are some fine Indian restaurants in Bristol, but most of them seem to offer the same generic Anglo-Indian cuisine – an overly-spicy jalfrezi, or a korma smothered in it’s own cream.

Krishna’s Inn is different, offering the lesser-seen South Indian food, usually lighter, more recognisably South Asian in flavours such as tamarind and coconut. Throughout the meal, my friends could not stop exclaiming over the discovery of pooris (a sort-of deep-fried bread), or masala dosas (crepes stuffed with potato curry).

People are so used to the traditional Anglo-Indian that they have no idea just how varied Indian cuisine really is.  Serving small dishes tapas-style, Krishna’s Inn offers the ideal way to try a new style of food, so it’s best to go with a large group to try as much as possible.

Kalan, a mango and green banana curry, was the unexpected star of the show, refreshingly light and sweet without being saccharine. The pooris mopped this up beautifully – as only a deep-fried carbohydrate could. Our masala dosa had an extra dimension of richness as it was roasted in ghee, adding a nice crunch to the surrounding crepe. Cashew nut pakoda was not what we expected, seemingly just a bowl of cashews fried in ghee and spices, but they were amazingly moreish.

Nearly everything on the menu sounded delicious, and we ordered, well, nearly everything on the menu, but when the bill came it only added up to £13-a-head. Including wine. I think I’m going to start going on a daily basis until either my loan runs out or I die from the amount of ghee in my arteries.

Krishna’s Inn is on the triangle at 4 Byron Place, BS8 1JT.

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